Belt for JVC L-A10, L-A11 LA10, LA11 180967333331

$9.8 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store atlantaprosound
(1659) 100.0%,

Location: Monroe, Georgia
Ships to: US,
Item: 175079932987

Restocking Fee:No
Return shipping will be paid by:Seller
All returns accepted:Returns Accepted
Item must be returned within:30 Days
Refund will be given as:Money back or replacement (buyer’s choice)
Compatible Brand:JVC
Type:Drive Belt
Compatible Model:L-A10, L-A11
MPN:FRi 236
Artistic Audio:Artistic Audio

Welcome to Atlanta Pro Sound Brand New Replacement Belt for JVC L-A10 or L-A11 Turntable Available as Buy it Now one (1) brand new replacement belt for a JVC LA10 or LA11 turntable. Please be sure to compare shipping prices!!! Do not get tricked into spending almost $6.00 for US First Class delivery! There is a myth that one belt fits 95% of all turntables. In reality, nothing is further from the truth. A belt that is an inch too large or small will probably run on your turntable, but if it is too small, it will wear out your motor years before it would under normal conditions. If it is too large, it might also be bad for the motor, but as belts get older, they expand, so in the best case, you need a replacement years before you should. There are people online who have been selling belts for 5-10 years. Many have lots of feedback or websites that “look” like they know what they are doing. Do they really know what belt is the match for your turntable? JVC quit giving technical support on the L-A11 (including part numbers) about a decade and a half ago. When your LA-11 rolled off the assembly line, I was Assistant Store Manager for the largest independent JVC dealer in the Southeastern US. Read the Seller History below for more information. (In case you are wondering…I enter the model with the dash in different positions so those who search for the model can find it regardless of if they have the dash in the right place!) 5 Belt Measurements All flat rubber belts have 5 measurements that affect the belt’s performance. Length is the one most people think of right away. Length affects how tight the belt is. If it is too tight, the motor will nor run (or if it is just a little too tight, the motor will wear out quickly). Width is one you might not think is important, however, the manufacturers specify this one down to the 64th of an inch! If the belt is too wide, the risk is the belt will hit the outsides of the capstan, which will create momentary bumps in the speed. If the belt is too narrow, it does not have enough contact with the capstan, causing it to slip. Either of these problems may be inaudible at first, but later? Who knows? Thickness of the belt is the smallest of the measurements. Most Turntable belts are close to the same thickness, but your parts provider who has only a decade of experience might buy their belts based on length and their cost alone. You could get a belt that they bought wholesale at 99 cents but is way too thick! A belt that is too thick will not fully fold around the capstan, causing more pitch problems. If you call to complain, you are told that your turntable has natural Wow and Flutter. Friends: The L-A11’s Wow and Flutter is eight (8) times below the audible limit (Sources: Julian Hirsch – Hirsch-Houck Labs and the JVC L-A11 Service Manual). Don’t let them pull the wool over your eyes! If you hear wow and flutter (a.k.a. bad speed fluctuation), you might just have the wrong size belt! External Diameter. This one is a no-brainer, it is closely related to the thickness and internal diameter. Internal Diameter. Like #4, this one is also a no-brainer, it is closely related to the thickness and external diameter. Many old-style belts were cut to size. Modern (get it out the door as fast as you can) cutting techniques can lead to inconsistencies and inferior product. This belt is not cut, it is precision molded to meet original factory specifications for the JVC L-A10 and L-A11 The belt you are about to receive was recently manufactured by the same company that made the first belts for the JVC L-A11. My distributor, Artistic Audio of Atlanta, buys thousands of belts made by this company and has been sending them all over the United States for many years. Every few of weeks Artistic Audio of Atlanta reorders belts buy the hundred, replacing the stock they have sold. No belt is on their shelf more than a few weeks. Because they come into the distributor regularly, I can personally guarantee that the belt you get is fresh! About the L-A10 and L-A11: The L- A10 and L-A11 are semi-automatic belt drive turntables. It has a clear plastic dust cover. There is no pitch control. This turntable maintains speed with a servo-lock mechanism. If the belt to too loose or too tight, the platter will not move. The absence of a pitch control gives the L- A10 and L-A11 a clean, sleek, streamlined appearance. In front of the dust cover, on the right side, is a silver button marked “reject”. Hitting the reject button while the turntable is playing will start the off cycle, the arm will raise and be placed in the arm rest (back, right) and within seconds the platter will stop spinning. Hitting the reject button while the turntable is not playing will start the off cycle the next time you play the turntable. All of the other controls are on the inside of the dust cover. The Cue, the thing that raises and lowers the arm, and the speed selector are on the right side of the tone arm. The arm pivots from the rear. Behind the pivot there is a counter balance that is used in balancing the tone arm. To the right of the pivot there is an anti-skate control, a spring-loaded mechanism that prevents uneven wear on the record. (If the anti-skate is set wrong, the records will wear out more at the beginning of the album and at the end of the album. It is important to set this correctly. If you buy a belt and you need instructions so that you can balance your arm and set the anti-skate, click on “Ask Seller a Question” to send me a message.) On the rear left corner of the turntable, there is a raised circle about 1/8” in diameter. This is where you keep your 45 RPM adaptor to play your 7-inch vinyl. If you need a 45 RPM Adaptor, click on “See Other Items” below where it says “atlantaprosound” on the top right side of this offer. Are you about to purchase an L-A10 or L-A11? The motor and drive system are built like a tank. Seeing it run may be your least concern. Here is what I check before buying: It should have a headshell and cartridge. The headshell screws into the tone arm. To remove it, turn the silver “cuff” on the end of the tonearm COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. It feels like that is backwards, but its how things work! Once you have the headshell off of the tonearm, check to see that there are four wires (they should be Red, White, Blue, and Green) coming from the back of the head shell and going to the cartridge. If you need a headshell, I should get them online soon, click on “See Other Items” below where it says “atlantaprosound” on the top right side of this offer. The cartridge should have a stylus. Styluses are “needles” that have the piece that touches the grove and plays the record. Look at the stylus. Does it have a piece of metal that lowers to the record, and is there a tip on the end of it? There are too many kinds of styluses to list them all on eBay. I have about 2,000 in stock, I probably have the one you need. If you need a stylus, click on “Ask Seller a Question” to send me a message. This one is really simple, but important. Check to see that there is a counter balance on the back end of the tone arm. These are not generic and “one size does not fit all”, if fact, if you don not have one, you will need to find someone selling an L-A10 or L-A11 for parts, or find someone who has bought one and is selling parts. You should spend no more than $10 on one, but finding one will be the trick! The last one is really easy to check as well. There is a black plastic bar in front of the place where the tonearm pivots. That is the arm lifter. It should move up and down when you change the position of the “cue” switch (front right) You may have heard someone say that the sound of vinyl sounds better than CDs. “How can this be?” you may wonder…the CDs don not have that scratchy sound. It is a matter of detail, really. You can prove it yourself with a $20.00 thrift-store turntable and a generic stylus. Get a copy of something easy to get, something acoustic, something like James Taylor’s, Carly Simon’s or Carol King’s greatest hits. (The demonstration works best with acoustic guitar, harp or lute, but once you have noticed the difference, you will be able to hear the difference on everything! The introduction to Ventura Highway by America will work well also.) Play it on your turntable, and listen especially to the very beginnings of each note in the guitar. Focus your attention to the very beginnings of each plucked string. The strings will sound almost like you can hear each of them roll off of the player’s fingers. That is the way it should sound all of the time. Now, play the same selection on a CD. You will probably notice that the beginnings of the notes sound muffled or slow. The beginnings of the notes on the CD have much less detail than their counterparts on vinyl. The reason is built into the way CD players work. CDs have a sampling rate of 44,100 samples per second. What this means is the volume level of a given sound is recorded at that frequency. ••••• Under Construction – Insert New Table Here! ••••• While the volume of the actual string is getting progressively louder, the volume on the CD recording is an average. As a note quickly gets louder, the CD sounds like stair steps, because we have a recording of averages for the length of time of the sample. This is why the vinyl sounds more like the original sound than the CD. Once you hear this, you will always look at listening for detail in the sound differently. Buying a new belt so you can transfer all your vinyl to CD? If you have read and understand the previous section, then you might want to re-think. The CD recording you make can not possibly sound the same as the vinyl, because in making the recording, you are creating the same stair-stepping sound that does not sound as good as the original vinyl! OK, OK, if you want to make CDs for the car, go ahead, but if you want to make CDs for detailed listening, maybe you should keep your vinyl. Georgia Residents will pay 7% Sales Tax. Shipping and handling is only $1.99 to any point in the USA. Belts are shipped by USPS Ground Advantage (2-5 Day expected delivery). Please, ask in advance about international shipping. Priority Mail shipping to the US is available for $9.65. Most items are shipped within 1 business day. Thanks in advance for your purchase!

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